Paul R. Mays wrote:

"Mark Fergerson" <nunya@biz.ness> wrote in message
news:3FEC9922.1030703@biz.ness...

tadchem wrote:

<snip browser clash>

Nice colors.  Good fiberglass work (believe me, I've seen a lot of BAD
fiberglass).

<I left Tom's comments in place because I agreed with him>

Thanx...   goes back to the day when I built a bunch
of choppers.....

  Um, got pics? We can broaden the discussion to angular momentum.

The right hand grip looks interesting - is it custom to you own hands?
I have short index fingers, so I shoot with my middle finger on the
trigger -
straighter pull, anyway.

  Looks custom to me. Very pretty indeed. Paul, how'd you
shape that?

I set the stock up on a table just as I would sit at the range and
used a batch of two part epoxy putty and squeezed it with my hand
around the grip ( drilled some holes and put a few short nails to
better bind to stock) and held in place while ,in a shooting position,
it sat up.  Then made fiber sheets to use for the cheek piece and
filled in with the same putty to fit my eye position on the scope..

  I tried the squeeze trick with a custom sword grip a few years ago but had a problem with it "gooshing" out between my fingers (yes, I wore a latex glove or I wouldn't have gotten my hand back). After much filing, cussing, and more filing it wound up looking like thousand-year-old gray ivory with a case of lichen. Ugly, but it gave a good firm grip...

Then I layered the entire stock with 6 layers of glass cloth and cut out
the action/trigger guard/mag well after it sat up..  Then tapped it
all over for any voids that formed and cut that area out and filled
in with a resin/ fiber shred mix then used a 2 part epoxy white paint
and used it as a sanding filler between sanding...  (about 120 hours

  Part of my problem is ADD/HD (when I was a kid they just called those like me "unruly"; you'd think that at 51 I'd have learned some patience, but NOOOOO).

  I just found (at a yard sale) Jim Carmichael's _Do-It-Yourself Gunsmithing_ which is long on woodwork, particularly checkering. If I can wean myself off coffee for a while I may give it a try on a medieval-style wizard's staff to fill in between the runes.

of hand sanding) ...  The paint is the same white 2 part epoxy but
with a touch of color in each coat fading from light blue to very dark
with a small amount of fine metal flake added..  then added the pin
stripping followed by 20 coats of clear 2 part epoxy with a 600 grit
sanding between coats...  polished the last coat with 3 grits of buffing
Some that know me know of my disability from getting a bit
to close to a missile that went bang in the army and I started
building cannons and guns as therapy from my hands that
don't work too well anymore ( better than that damn silly
putty the VA sent me home to pull and stretch)  compounds
...  then used AcruGlas bedding mix to glass bed the action.

  Well, crap. And all this time I've been congratulating myself on never having even broken a bone. Lemons and lemonade in your case, man.

And thanx for the pats guys..

  Beauty is always worth acknowledging.

What I can't quite make out from the pix is whether the barrel lines up
with
the shoulder pad.  It is my understanding that such an alignment reduces
muzzle climb, facilitating repeatability (precision) of targeting.  From
what I can see, it looks pretty close.

  I'd guess no. There've been experimental weapons, from
handguns to rifles, that lined up the bore with the shoulder
pad, and yes, they reduce climb. However, they also tend to
break bones and/or dislocate joints.

In this gun I made the cheek peice at the height to fix my
eye at the scope eyepiece center...  Since I am putting a
.980 target barrel and the scope is a 65mm od objective
I had to raise the cheek piece about 1.25" from stock to
clear the barrel...  Since this is a .22 rim fire and the final
"weight" ( Weight as a measure of gravitational
interplay between two massive bodies...  not mass  ;)  )
being 14 pounds, muzzle rise is not a factor..  Hell I
can hardly pick it up....

  Well, that's what shooting benches are for, no?

And I have been building guns and cannons for 15 years
and yes a str8 line stock has its place but with heavy
calibers it can cause bodly damage...  Is why in the
last .50 nato caliber gun I built I placed a sliding
tube in the rear stock with springs that was filled with
mercury.  The recoil is reduced by about 30% by
extending the recoil pulse of a duration as the tube
opposes the rear first pulse peak.

  Hmmm. Got pics? Diagrams?

I also built a 2.5" bore recoiless action cannon on
a spring loaded slide with car shocks ..that was a hoot
to shoot...

  I bet! I also hope you have appreciative neighbors...

  Oh BTW Paul, the guys in alt.binaries.pictures.weapons
would really appreciate your work.

I posted a few shots of a silanced full auto bullpub design
I did a while back and they ripped on me for telling people
how to make illigle weapons so screw em.. ( I carry a class2)

  Did Doc give you a hard time? He usually doesn't, _if_ you state clearly that it's a hobby thing (although disclaimers usually don't do you much good when some asshole copies your design, goes postal, and you get group-sued). Lately there've been a few edged/pointy things (illegal in most places) built from a regular's drawings that went over very well.

I'll stick to physics groups where theoretical science and
design specifications are always met with support and
kind words with never harsh treatment of idea's that are
not in the main stream.   A place where folks, like Unky Al,
Franz, Gauge and the likes, treat opposing ideas with open minds
and supportive comments on postulates posted......... ;)~

  My monitor needed cleaning, but I don't recommend coffee. ;>)

  Mark L. Fergerson