"Mark Fergerson" <nunya@biz.ness> wrote in message
news:3FEDB5F9.4030401@biz.ness...

Paul R. Mays wrote:

"Mark Fergerson" <nunya@biz.ness> wrote in message
news:3FEC9922.1030703@biz.ness...

tadchem wrote:

<snip browser clash>

Nice colors.  Good fiberglass work (believe me, I've seen a lot of BAD
fiberglass).

<I left Tom's comments in place because I agreed with him>

Thanx...   goes back to the day when I built a bunch
of choppers.....

   Um, got pics? We can broaden the discussion to angular
momentum.

Nah...  that was back in the day and what pics I had
are scattered throught many states with a few Ex-wives...

But a Sportster I did in 78 took second at the West Branch
Harley rally....  And I painted background color for Yosemite
Sam in 69~70 and help Finch build the Finch bike at the
National Gallery of Art in 70....

The right hand grip looks interesting - is it custom to you own hands?
I have short index fingers, so I shoot with my middle finger on the
trigger -
straighter pull, anyway.

  Looks custom to me. Very pretty indeed. Paul, how'd you
shape that?

I set the stock up on a table just as I would sit at the range and
used a batch of two part epoxy putty and squeezed it with my hand
around the grip ( drilled some holes and put a few short nails to
better bind to stock) and held in place while ,in a shooting position,
it sat up.  Then made fiber sheets to use for the cheek piece and
filled in with the same putty to fit my eye position on the scope..

   I tried the squeeze trick with a custom sword grip a few
years ago but had a problem with it "gooshing" out between
my fingers (yes, I wore a latex glove or I wouldn't have
gotten my hand back). After much filing, cussing, and more
filing it wound up looking like thousand-year-old gray ivory
with a case of lichen. Ugly, but it gave a good firm grip...

Technology has advanced guy  ;)

Try the new and improved 2 part stuff that has
the hardener on the outside and Epoxy as a center
core that you mix by "working" it untill its the same
color...  this stuff has the consistency of modeling clay
and does squeez out but you just keep pushing it
back until it assumes the shape you like...  It sets up
in about 10 min...

Then I layered the entire stock with 6 layers of glass cloth and cut out
the action/trigger guard/mag well after it sat up..  Then tapped it
all over for any voids that formed and cut that area out and filled
in with a resin/ fiber shred mix then used a 2 part epoxy white paint
and used it as a sanding filler between sanding...  (about 120 hours

   Part of my problem is ADD/HD (when I was a kid they just
called those like me "unruly"; you'd think that at 51 I'd
have learned some patience, but NOOOOO).

Thats why everybody thinks my variable c postulate
is kookdom revisited...  No patiance to wait 50 million years
to observe the variance  ;)

   I just found (at a yard sale) Jim Carmichael's
_Do-It-Yourself Gunsmithing_ which is long on woodwork,
particularly checkering. If I can wean myself off coffee for
a while I may give it a try on a medieval-style wizard's
staff to fill in between the runes.

I also collect swords and blades so would be interested in
seeing what you come up with...

of hand sanding) ...  The paint is the same white 2 part epoxy but
with a touch of color in each coat fading from light blue to very dark
with a small amount of fine metal flake added..  then added the pin
stripping followed by 20 coats of clear 2 part epoxy with a 600 grit
sanding between coats...  polished the last coat with 3 grits of buffing
Some that know me know of my disability from getting a bit
to close to a missile that went bang in the army and I started
building cannons and guns as therapy from my hands that
don't work too well anymore ( better than that damn silly
putty the VA sent me home to pull and stretch)  compounds
...  then used AcruGlas bedding mix to glass bed the action.

   Well, crap. And all this time I've been congratulating
myself on never having even broken a bone. Lemons and
lemonade in your case, man.

Yea... I did one tour in Nam and never got a scratch...
Got back and set up a Hawk system at Fort Bliss for
a test fire and a LT miss programmed a bird and it left
the rack and went 100 yards straight out and nose dived
into the sand and detonated...  two of my squad got
wiped and I got burned and about 130 pieces of assorted
metal fragments peppered about my body...  Did ok
and healed up well untill about 3 years ago went the
nerve fibers at each point where damange was done started
altering the signals passing through those points...  And have
slowly been degenerating since..  Its why some of my post
idiosyncrasies due to me using a customized formating
and spelling routine to correct for my one finger ( inacurate)
typing....

And thanx for the pats guys..

   Beauty is always worth acknowledging.

Then I won't post my photo like Relf did.....

What I can't quite make out from the pix is whether the barrel lines up
with
the shoulder pad.  It is my understanding that such an alignment

reduces

muzzle climb, facilitating repeatability (precision) of targeting.

From

what I can see, it looks pretty close.

  I'd guess no. There've been experimental weapons, from
handguns to rifles, that lined up the bore with the shoulder
pad, and yes, they reduce climb. However, they also tend to
break bones and/or dislocate joints.

In this gun I made the cheek peice at the height to fix my
eye at the scope eyepiece center...  Since I am putting a
.980 target barrel and the scope is a 65mm od objective
I had to raise the cheek piece about 1.25" from stock to
clear the barrel...  Since this is a .22 rim fire and the final
"weight" ( Weight as a measure of gravitational
interplay between two massive bodies...  not mass  ;)  )
being 14 pounds, muzzle rise is not a factor..  Hell I
can hardly pick it up....

   Well, that's what shooting benches are for, no?

And I have been building guns and cannons for 15 years
and yes a str8 line stock has its place but with heavy
calibers it can cause bodly damage...  Is why in the
last .50 nato caliber gun I built I placed a sliding
tube in the rear stock with springs that was filled with
mercury.  The recoil is reduced by about 30% by
extending the recoil pulse of a duration as the tube
opposes the rear first pulse peak.

   Hmmm. Got pics? Diagrams?

I also built a 2.5" bore recoiless action cannon on
a spring loaded slide with car shocks ..that was a hoot
to shoot...

   I bet! I also hope you have appreciative neighbors...

This was my last cannon...

Http://Paul.Mays.Com/cannon.html

  Oh BTW Paul, the guys in alt.binaries.pictures.weapons
would really appreciate your work.

I posted a few shots of a silanced full auto bullpub design
I did a while back and they ripped on me for telling people
how to make illigle weapons so screw em.. ( I carry a class2)

   Did Doc give you a hard time? He usually doesn't, _if_
you state clearly that it's a hobby thing (although
disclaimers usually don't do you much good when some asshole
copies your design, goes postal, and you get group-sued).
Lately there've been a few edged/pointy things (illegal in
most places) built from a regular's drawings that went over
very well.

Yea I have a new design for a silancer using a Mag Light
flash light as the body and its cheep and works like a charm but
I keep those idea for meself......... cause sombody will
do somthin stupid and blame me for suppling the idea...

I'll stick to physics groups where theoretical science and
design specifications are always met with support and
kind words with never harsh treatment of idea's that are
not in the main stream.   A place where folks, like Unky Al,
Franz, Gauge and the likes, treat opposing ideas with open minds
and supportive comments on postulates posted......... ;)~

   My monitor needed cleaning, but I don't recommend coffee. ;>)

Glad I could help.....

   Mark L. Fergerson